The Importance of Sparring and Experience in Gamefowls

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There are two kinds of gamefowls--those that charge across the pit -- mad as a hornet, with only the thought of total destruction of their opponent on their minds and there are those that fight because they are being attacked and fight just hard enough to keep their attacker kicked off, and they do most of their kicking with the bottoms of their feet.

With the modern feeds and medicines, we have today, it is simple to achieve good physical health in our fowl. On the other hand, the small pens, and overcrowded conditions our fowl are forced to endure, are certainly not helping the mental health of the fowl.

The quickest way to take the aggressiveness out of a rooster is to let him see all other roosters around him in pens, on tie cords, and in conditioning stalls.

Tie cords outweigh the benefits of using Scratch Pens. Corded gamefowls become very alert, active, and happy when staked out on green grass, even for only a few minutes a day. If the soil is loose within the tie cord area, they will thoroughly enjoy dusting themselves. 

We can help restore aggressiveness by fixing the pens so that our fowl cannot see each other. Also, you can fix blinders on your conditioning stalls so the fowl can’t see each other. Gamefowls off tie-out cords are usually sharp mentally due to the large area tie cord affords, birds flying overhead, and general alertness to what is going around them, and they easily regain their aggressiveness in the Keep and Point.

Putting a stag in a pen with old cocks crowing all around him will make a nervous wreck of him in short order. Keep stags in pens off to themselves, as far away from the roosters as possible until they are at least 13 months old.

Light Sparring Rubber Muffs for Stags and Light Fowls

When sparring, ace fowls can be dropped twenty feet apart and they will lose no time getting at one another, but inexperienced fowls and stags will prance up to each other sideways and one will get a free shot. Pit inexperienced fowl three feet apart at first and move back a little farther each sparring session thereafter. Also, let them hit only briefly. Don’t let them get a bill hold and wallow each other and break feathers.

Many high-strung, nervous fowl lose their aggressiveness in the Point at last of the Keep. They pace back and forth, stamp and crow all day when they should be resting. Complete darkness and no disturbance of any kind is a must for a high-strung fowl.

Heavy Sparring Rubber Muffs for Older and Heavier Fowls

Aggressiveness, alertness, and sparring ability usually go hand-in-hand. If you have one you usually have it all. Remember that most gamefowls and stags when fought for the first time, have less than 5 minutes of total adult sparring experience. They had a lot of chick fights; probably a few brawls with their brothers after they were old enough to crow and run after hens. True, a gamefowl has inherited his fighting ability but he needs sparring to bring it to perfection. Gamefowls fought in gaffs the first time often are fighting better ten minutes after the fight starts than they did the first few pitting if the fight lasts that long.

When fighting in the 3 ½ Filipino knife or Mexico’s 1” knife, the situation is much more serious. In gaffs, a cock many times can come from behind and win, but in the knife, you are allowed no mistakes and the most you can hope for yourself if you get behind is a draw.

Filipino-Type Sparring Gloves simulate knife experience 

Aggressiveness, alertness, and fighting ability are much more important in knife fighting than in gaffs, as you must break faster and higher. Hit first and hit hard and accurate because on the second buckle, it is your opponent’s turn, he hits your fowl’s right thigh muscle first—you then are off balance and fall to the right and he plants that 3 ½” in your back, or breast. An ace fowl will kick or jerk his opponent off balance to get a free shot without taking one in return. This is what the sport is all about in all weapons.

 

 

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Manfighters

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Roy Bingham 

Our fearless editor has asked me to comment on this most serious problem often confronting many men in our sport. Manfighters are not only dangerous but a complete financial loss as far as pit winners are concerned. 

There are two main types of manfighters; one is due to breeding, but with patience and proper handling ling will calm down enough to score or attach his opponent across the pit, rather than turn on the handler. These gamefowls usually become very normal with time and handling. The second type is made into a manfighter by catching his hens, impatience, and improper handling. The longer you fool with him the madder he gets. 

This type of Manfighter gets worse as he goes along and will reach a point of no return. He then will attack not only humans but cattle, horses, and anything that moves. Needless to say, he will always turn on the handler when pitted, giving the opposing cock a free shot at his back. Manfighters have a very poor win percentage and have a high percentage of runners. by and poor Their worth as brood cocks is doubtful.

The Art of Pointing Gamefowl (Part I)

The ability to point out a show of gamefowl is not, in itself an art, rather it is simply a matter of knowing what pointing is all about and using that knowledge to help overcome the problems that are most commonly associated with the pointing procedures. The following is presented as a more or less guide to a better understanding of the Art of Pointing Gamefowl.

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Prologue

Like man and other mammals, gamefowls are homeothermic, that is, they are warm-blooded and are able to control their body temperatures when environmental changes in weather take place. As a ground-dwelling species of birds, gamefowls are creatures with intense metabolic rates, more so than man and most other mammals. Consequently, due to this high metabolism, gamefowls are prone to suffer from adverse effects of both physical and emotional stress. Although there are many other factors that present problems during the pointing procedures, stress is probably the single most important factor in preventing and holding a fowl on point. Therefore, the management of stress, both internal and external during the pointing procedure is the number one priority.

What is Stress?

Stress is any physical or emotional strain on the body or mind or both. Physical stress occurs when an external or natural change of force acts on a fowl's body such as extreme heat or cold, overwork, injuries or illness, malnutrition, parasites, excessive handling, and traveling etc.

Emotional stress may be the result of tension, frustration, and/or anxiety due to caging, the conditioning period, lack of rest, traveling, and many other factors. Both physical and emotional stress can overlap during these times and the body reacts by increased or lowered metabolism, depending on the type of stress, by changing the body's normal physical functions. This is a natural response is common to man, beast, and fowl.

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What Happens When Stress Occurs?

When a gamefowl is subjected to either physical or emotional stress the natural response of the body is to produce more adrenal hormones. These adrenal hormones are secreted by glands that lie above the kidneys. When released into the blood, these hormones prepare the body for action by increasing blood pressure and heartbeat and by making more energy available by increasing the glucose blood plasma to its highest possible point.

The increase in the production of adrenal hormones which occurs with stress increases the metabolism of protein, fats, and carbohydrates, producing instant energy for the body to use. As a result of this increased metabolism, there is also an increase of excretion or loss of protein, potassium, and phosphorus and a decreased storage of calcium.

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Many of the disorders related to stress are not a direct result of the stress itself but a result of nutrient deficiencies caused by increased metabolism during the period of stress. Any stress that is sufficiently severe or prolonged will cause a depletion of vital nutrients that have been stored in the liver and tissues. For example; Vitamin C is manufactured by the fowl's body and stored to some extent in the muscle tissues and is essential for the normal functions of the adrenal glands. When stress occurs, the adrenal glands use up all the available Vitamin C and adrenal exhaustion occurs. In other words, they cannot function properly and in extreme cases not at all.

The Management of Stress

A certain amount of stress is useful in conditioning gamefowls. But when it occurs in excess or is of the wrong kind, the effect on a fowl's entire system can be devastating.

There are simply too many factors involved to allow for the prevention of the many types of stress one encounter. Stress and its related disorders, more often than not, are not apparent and may go unnoticed, therefore measures must be taken to assure that these hidden abnormalities of stress are brought under control.

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Both physical and emotional stress can be best managed by rest and by the replacement of vital nutrients lost during these long periods. This is basically what the pointing procedures are all about.

Fowls should be protected from extreme weather conditions. They should have ample room to exercise and not be caged for long periods of time. They must be wormed and deloused on a regular basis. They must have access to water at all times and be handled as little as possible and with care. (TO BE CONTINUED)

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MY 21 DAY CONDITIONING KEEP, TIPS AND POINTER

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I have been fighting roosters regularly for roughly thirty years way back in my high school days. At that time when most of my peers were into playing video games, chess, or attending parties and the like, yours truly was already busy tending and fighting roosters.

Yes, the thirty years or so of experience has taught and untaught me a lot of things and lessons regarding the art of cockfighting. I had the privilege of owning and conditioning both imported and local fighting cocks and raising most if not all the best and popular gamefowl bloodlines that set foot in the country. Of equal importance, is the privilege of having been associated with the best gamefowl conditioners especially when I was starting in the sport. These long years of experience have taught me how to put my roosters in shape and ready for big-time competition. What I shall impart with you is based on my personal /first-hand experiences.

Let us begin by the kind of roosters that we shall condition. Please remember the following: No amount of scientific conditioning contained in this keep can transform a mediocre rooster into an ace cock. All we can do to our second-rate roosters is to bring them to their full potential. Thus, it is best if you fight your mediocre fowls in hack fights where the chances of meeting class A opponents are less.

 **Only class A roosters stand a chance to win the Derby Championship in today’s top competition **

 What is a class A rooster? The following for me are the requisites: First, your rooster must come from a winning line or family that has been winning ‘consistently and currently’ in the derbies. Second, the rooster must be fresh and in robust health (he must not have been moderately or severely ill throughout his life). Third, the rooster must possess nice conformation ( proportional size and station in relation to his weight), Fourth, There must be no visible or physical defects such as severely curled toes, broken/damaged wing and or tail feathers, bumblefoot, crooked breast bones, etc…, Fifth, he must be properly aged, ideally 30 months and above, where he is at his physical and psychological peak., Sixth, He must be a good and consistent sparer, not an erratic performer. All these requisites must be present for a rooster to be in the class A category.

 **Preference and Taste**

I shall always give preference to an intelligent fighting and accurate cutting rooster over the aggressive/rusher type. When I was new in the sport, I really wanted roosters that are aggressive, rough, and multiple hitters. In fact, It took me quite a number of years to realize that this type of fighting will not yield the winning percentage I desired. It was sometime in the mid-80s when I had a change of heart when I started looking for bloodline/s that would suit the new fighting style of my preference. Over the years I have developed strains and families of intelligent roosters that win a big majority of my fights. The fowls I have developed win quickly with their accurate cutting and great timing without losing their gameness and power if needed during a drag fight. Win, Lose or Draw the present fowls I breed and fight unleash powerful single blows, well-timed and deliberate, each intended to kill the opponent at the early buckles. The number of championship trophies displayed on the farm plus my other victories were mostly compliments of these types of roosters.

 ***FEEDING THE CHAMPIONS***

FEED MIXTURE FOR YOUR ROOSTERS (GOOD FOR 6 COCKS)

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25GRAMS - OAT GROATS

40GRAMS - CRACKED CORN

60 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE

75 GRAMS - PLATINUM

1 PC. FINELY CHOPPED BOILED EGG WHITE

1 TBSP FLAT- DEXTROSE POWDER

**SECRET WEAPON

**PURE HONEY

DIRECTIONS: Mix the 25grams oat groats, 40grams of cracked corn, and 60grams of concentrate. Wash three times then drain thoroughly.

Place the drained grains in a mixing bowl then add your 75grams platinum, 1 pc finely chopped boiled egg white, and one tbsp flat dextrose powder. Stir well and put 35grams of the mixture into six feeding clay pots. Before giving rationed feeds to roosters, put three drops of a secret weapon and a drop of pure honey (about a dime size ) on top of each individual ration. Feed the roosters. Omit the secret weapon and pure honey in the afternoon feed.

For their drinking water, mix selectrogen or electrogen daily “only in their morning” drinking water, especially during the hot summer months. Give clean fresh in their afternoon drinking water.

CARBOLOADING(2 – 4 DAYS BEFORE FIGHT )

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30 GRAMS - OAT GRATS

70 GRAMS - CRACK CORN

40 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE

60 GRAMS – PLATINUM

 ***FOLLOW THE SAME FEEDING & DRINKING WATER PROCEDURES

CARBOLOADING (1 DAY BEFORE FIGHT)

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30 GRAMS – OAT GROATS

90 GRAMS - CRACK CORN

30 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE

50 GRAMS - PLATINUM

***CUT THEIR RATION TO 30 GRAMS PER COCK FOR THEIR MORNING AND AFTERNOON FEEDING.

CUT WATER INTAKE TO 8 DIPS IN THE MORNING AND 8 DIPS IN THE AFTERNOON.

CARBOLOADING AND POINTING ON FIGHT DAY

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30 GRAMS - OAT GROATS

100GRAMS – CRACK CORN

50 GRAMS – PLATINUM

****RATION 30 GRAMS PER COCK FOR MORNING FEED. NO REGULAR AFTERNOON FEED**

CUT WATER INTAKE TO 4 DIPS IN THE MORNING.

DERBY TIPS AND POINTERS on FIGHT DAY

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***I DEDUCT 40 GRAMS OFF FROM EACH OF MY ROOSTERS’ WEIGHTS IN ARRIVING AT MY ENTRY’S SUBMITTED/DECLARED WEIGHTS. (FOR EXAMPLE, MY ROOSTER WEIGHS 2.040KGS. WILL BE SUBMITTED/DECLARED AS 2.000KGS.) THIS IS SAFE ENOUGH AS THE USUAL ‘BAD WEIGHTS‘ IMPLEMENTED BY VARIOUS COCKPITS ARE FROM 35-45GRAMS.

***LIMBER AND DROP ROOSTERS INSIDE 3X3 PENS EVERY 2 ½ HRS FOR APPROXIMATELY 5-10 MINUTES FOR THEM TO EXCRETE DROPPINGS.

***IN THE AFTERNOON, TEST WEIGHT YOUR ROOSTERS EVERY TIME THEY ARE DROPPED.

***IF THEY ARE ALREADY IN THEIR GOOD WEIGHT WITHIN 4 HOURS WITHIN THEIR APPROXIMATE FIGHTING TIME, DON’T FEED THEM ANYMORE.

***IF THEY ARE WITHIN THE GOOD WEIGHT AND ARE EXPECTED TO BE FOUGHT BEYOND 4 HOURS,

YOU MAY FEED THEM NOT MORE THAN 5 GRAMS OF CRACK CORN/PLATINUM MIXTURE DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH WEIGHT THEIR WEIGHTS HAVE DROPPED.

***IF YOU ARE WITHIN GOOD WEIGHT AND YOUR FOWL’S DROPPINGS ARE TOO DRY, YOU MAY GIVE THEM 2-3 DIPS OF WATER WITH SELECTROGEN BUT AT LEAST 2 HOURS BEFORE FIGHT. THIS WILL PROVIDE MOISTURE TO THEIR SYSTEM.

***IF YOU ARE WITHIN GOOD WEIGHT AND YOUR FOWL’S DROPPINGS ARE WET OR TOO SOFT, YOU MAY GIVE THEM 7-9 PIECES OF PELLETS/PLATINUM AND 3-4 PIECES OF CRACKED CORN. THIS WILL ABSORB THE EXCESS MOISTURE IN THEIR SYSTEM. DO THIS AT LEAST 2 HOURS BEFORE FIGHT TIME.

***ENSURE THAT THE CROPS OF YOUR FOWLS ARE EMPTY WHEN THEY ARE FOUGHT. THUS, ALWAYS CALCULATE THE TIME YOUR COCKS SHALL BE FOUGHT TO ENSURE THIS.( BASE YOUR CALCULATION AT 5-7 FIGHTS per HOUR)

***AVOID WETTING YOUR FOWLS EXTERNALLY TOO MUCH DURING FIGHT DAY. THIS WOULD ONLY ADD UNNECESSARY EXTERNAL MOISTURE TO YOUR ROOSTERS. A FEW SPRAYS OF WATER IN THEIR FACE AND VENT IS ENOUGH TO FRESHEN THEM. TOO MUCH WETTING/SPRAYING ON FIGHT DAY WOULD DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD.

MY 21DAY VITAMIN/SUPPLEMENT FORMULA

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

DAY 1 .3CC COMPLEXOR

DAY 2 ½ CENTRUM

DAY 3 CALCIUM

DAY 4 PANAX GINSENG

DAY 5 .25CC B-12

DAY 6 ½ CENTRUM

DAY 7 CALCIUM

DAY 8 ½ CENTRUM

DAY 9 .25CC B-12 = .25CC COMPLEXOR

DAY 10 PANAX GINSENG

DAY 11 ½ CENTRUM

DAY 12 CALCIUM

DAY 13 ½ CENTRUM

DAY 14 .4CC B-12

DAY 15 PANAX GINSENG

DAY 16 ½ CENTRUM

DAY 17 VOLTPLEX

DAY 18 .4CC B-12

DAY 19 VOLTPLEX (LUNCHTIME)

DAY 20 PANAX GINSENG (LUNCHTIME)

DAY 21 – VOLTPLEX 6:00 AM (FIGHT DAY)

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***FROM DAYS 1 – 18 GIVE DURING EVENING OR LATE AFTERNOON AFTER FEEDING

NATURAL TRAINING AND EXERCISE

BASIC FACILITIES AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED

SCRATCH BOX (WITH DRIED CORN HUSKS INSIDE)

4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS

FLYING PENS

RUNNING PENS

CORD AREA

RUEDA/PIT WITH LIGHTS

WEIGHING SCALE ( 5 GRAMS GRADUATION)

COOKHOUSE WITH RESTING COOPS

DAILY TRAINING ROUTINE/EXERCISE

**DAYS 1- 5 (START 4:00AM)

10 MINUTES EACH INSIDE SCRATCH BOX

1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA UNDER FLUORESCENT LIGHTS

5:00 – 5:30AM BACK TO CORD AREA

6:00 - 6:30AM PLACE IN RUNNING PEN FOR 30 MINUTES

FEED AND REST THEM 7:00AM

3:00PM 10 MINUTES EACH INSIDE SCRATCH BOX

4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED AND REST

***DAYS 6-10( START 4:00AM)

15 MINUTES INSIDE SCRATCH BOX

1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA –DO-

5:00-5:30AM CORD AREA –DO-

6:00-6:30AM RUNNING PENS –DO-

7:OOAM FEED AND REST

8:00AM – 9:00AM SUN BATHE INSIDE 4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS

9:00AM – 12:30PM REST IN CORD AREA OR 4 X 4 PENS INSIDE RUEDA

12:30PM – 4:00PM PLACE THEM INSIDE FLYING PENS

4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED AND REST

****DAYS 11-13 (START 4:AM)

-DO- SCRATCH BOX

-DO- LIMBER RUEDA

-DO- CORD AREA

7:00AM MORNING FEED

8:00AM– 3:00PM FLYING PEN

3:00PM 15 MINUTES SCRATCH BOX

4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED

7:00PM-8:00PM 1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE LIGHTED RUEDA

*****DAYS 14-18 (START 4:00AM)

-DO- SCRATCH BOX

-DO- LIMBER RUEDA

-DO- CORD AREA

7:00AM MORNING FEED

8:00AM-8:30/9:00(DEPENDING ON HEAT OF SUN) AM SUNBATHE INSIDE 4 X 4 PENS

9:00AM-12:00PM REST THEM AT CORD AREA

12:00PM – 3:00PM REST THEM AT RUEDA INSIDE 4 X 4 PENS

3:00PM SCRATCH BOX 5 MINUTES ONLY

4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED

7:00PM-8:00PM LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA

 

******DAYS 19 AND 20

NO MORNING WORK, 4:00AM JUST LET ROOSTERS WALK INDIVIDUALLY INSIDE LIGHTED RUEDA

FOR TEN MINUTES, THEN PUT THEM BACK INSIDE THEIR COOPS. REPEAT THIS AT 12:00PM AND

4:00PM AFTERNOON. BEFORE FEEDING THEM PLACE THEM INSIDE A SCRATCH BOX FOR ONLY FIVE

MINUTES MAXIMUM, JUST ENOUGH TO LOOSEN THEIR MUSCLES.

********DAY21 FIGHT DAY

TOTAL REST FOR ROOSTERS. GOOD LUCK!!!

TIPS ON SPARRING

Gallos Finos Sparring Rubber Gloves

Why do we spar roosters? Most often, roosters are sparred for entertainment purposes especially when friends or buyers are around. It can showcase each rooster’s fighting styles and abilities. However, sparring roosters during the conditioning stage is done quite differently when they are sparred during the pre-conditioning and/or maintenance stage. When my cocks are in the pre-conditioning and maintenance stage, I see to it that they are sparred once or twice a month. 

My stags are sparred at every other four days. I spar them just to have them accustomed to being sparred and more important to monitor and record which among them are the very good and consistent sparrers. You may at this stage spar them alternately on grass and at your rueda. Two rounds of three buckles each is enough. I usually spar them before being fed in the morning or afternoon. Rate them as follows C (Deficient), B (average), B+ (good), A (very good), A+ (excellent), A++(super). Don’t play favorites and be objective when rating them. For your selection of candidate cocks/stags to be placed in your 21 days keep, only choose from among those who are consistently rated as A and higher. Selection is key in winning derby championships.

Sparring sessions during the 21 days keep is done around 4:00 – 5:30 am. Your sparring days shall be Days 4, 10, and 15 during this 21 day keep. This will serve as your gauge as to which among your candidate roosters are most worthy of being fielded in. Again, always record and rate each rooster per session as objectively as you can. During the 21-day conditioning stage, you must now always spar in your rueda under fluorescent lights. It is nice if you can also play a loud radio to accustom them to the lighting and various noise conditions inside the pit as close as possible. Try to heat and release your roosters as if you are already atop the pit in the actual fight. 

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Release your roosters in the manner you intend to release them come fight time. Two rounds of 2 to 3 short buckles is enough. Always remember to bathe or shampoo your roosters the day after their sparring day. I use mite Zero Mite or Wash-Out shampoo for roosters which I find both effective and fowl friendly. Remember this, “We do not intend to acquire stamina and endurance during sparring, again this is only our gauge on how ready our roosters are”. Too much and long sparring will only do more harm than good as it will sap the energy and vitality. It also is the main reason for our roosters to sustain injuries such as sprains, muscle strains, dislocated joints, damaged beaks, and spurs not to mention broken tail and wing feathers. Worst of all over-sparring will only ruin your roosters’ sharpness and edge. Don’t spar your roosters to the point of exhaustion. We want our roosters to be razor-sharp as possible come fight time. We want them to be on ‘edge’, thus be able to kill their opponents as quickly as possible and full of vigor and reserved energy to be able to last the ten-minute time limit during a long battering drag fight if needed.

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RANDOM TIPS AND POINTERS

________________________________

** DEWORM ALL CANDIDATE ROOSTERS 7 DAYS BEFORE THIS 21 DAY KEEP REGIMEN AND

REPEAT DEWORMING 12-14 DAYS BEFORE THE FIGHT.

**BATHE AND/OR SHAMPOO ROOSTERS THE DAY AFTER EACH SPARRING SESSION

**MAKE IT A POINT TO DOUBLE THE NUMBER OF YOUR CANDIDATE ROOSTERS ESPECIALLY IN A BIG EVENT YOU ARE PARTICIPATING. THUS, YOU MUST HAVE 8 GOOD CANDIDATE COCKS FOR A 4 COCK DERBY EVENT.

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PRODUCT OF THE BROOD PEN.

***YOUR CHEAPEST INVESTMENT IN THIS SPORT IS THE ACQUISITION OF QUALITY BROOD MATERIALS AS THIS WOULD DETERMINE YOUR DESTINY IN THE SPORT.

***ACQUIRE BROOD FOWL ONLY FROM ESTABLISHED BREEDERS WHO SHALL SELL YOU HIS WINNING BLOODLINES. CONSISTENCY AND LONGEVITY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME IN THE SPORT. SHORT-LIVED BLOODLINES AND NICKS COME AND GO, BUT THE BEST ONES ARE HERE TO STAY.

*** TRY YOUR DARNDEST BEST TO FOLLOW STRICTLY WHAT I HAVE SHARED WITH YOU AND IT WILL SURELY INCREASE YOUR WINNING PERCENTAGES DRAMATICALLY FOR AS LONG YOU ARE USING QUALITY BATTLE FOWL. WHAT I HAVE SHARED HERE HAS BEEN PROVEN OVER THE YEARS IN THE TOUGHEST PITS IN ARANETA, ROLIGON, PASAY, MAKATI, CAINTA, SAN JUAN, AND OTHER TOP COCK FIGHTING VENUES.

FERDIE C. DUCEPEC