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I have been fighting roosters regularly for roughly thirty years way back in my high school days. At that time when most of my peers were into playing video games, chess, or attending parties and the like, yours truly was already busy tending and fighting roosters.
Yes, the thirty years or so of experience has taught and untaught me a lot of things and lessons regarding the art of cockfighting. I had the privilege of owning and conditioning both imported and local fighting cocks and raising most if not all the best and popular gamefowl bloodlines that set foot in the country. Of equal importance, is the privilege of having been associated with the best gamefowl conditioners especially when I was starting in the sport. These long years of experience have taught me how to put my roosters in shape and ready for big-time competition. What I shall impart with you is based on my personal /first-hand experiences.
Let us begin by the kind of roosters that we shall condition. Please remember the following: No amount of scientific conditioning contained in this keep can transform a mediocre rooster into an ace cock. All we can do to our second-rate roosters is to bring them to their full potential. Thus, it is best if you fight your mediocre fowls in hack fights where the chances of meeting class A opponents are less.
**Only class A roosters stand a chance to win the Derby Championship in today’s top competition **
What is a class A rooster? The following for me are the requisites: First, your rooster must come from a winning line or family that has been winning ‘consistently and currently’ in the derbies. Second, the rooster must be fresh and in robust health (he must not have been moderately or severely ill throughout his life). Third, the rooster must possess nice conformation ( proportional size and station in relation to his weight), Fourth, There must be no visible or physical defects such as severely curled toes, broken/damaged wing and or tail feathers, bumblefoot, crooked breast bones, etc…, Fifth, he must be properly aged, ideally 30 months and above, where he is at his physical and psychological peak., Sixth, He must be a good and consistent sparer, not an erratic performer. All these requisites must be present for a rooster to be in the class A category.
**Preference and Taste**
I shall always give preference to an intelligent fighting and accurate cutting rooster over the aggressive/rusher type. When I was new in the sport, I really wanted roosters that are aggressive, rough, and multiple hitters. In fact, It took me quite a number of years to realize that this type of fighting will not yield the winning percentage I desired. It was sometime in the mid-80s when I had a change of heart when I started looking for bloodline/s that would suit the new fighting style of my preference. Over the years I have developed strains and families of intelligent roosters that win a big majority of my fights. The fowls I have developed win quickly with their accurate cutting and great timing without losing their gameness and power if needed during a drag fight. Win, Lose or Draw the present fowls I breed and fight unleash powerful single blows, well-timed and deliberate, each intended to kill the opponent at the early buckles. The number of championship trophies displayed on the farm plus my other victories were mostly compliments of these types of roosters.
***FEEDING THE CHAMPIONS***
FEED MIXTURE FOR YOUR ROOSTERS (GOOD FOR 6 COCKS)
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25GRAMS - OAT GROATS
40GRAMS - CRACKED CORN
60 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
75 GRAMS - PLATINUM
1 PC. FINELY CHOPPED BOILED EGG WHITE
1 TBSP FLAT- DEXTROSE POWDER
**SECRET WEAPON
**PURE HONEY
DIRECTIONS: Mix the 25grams oat groats, 40grams of cracked corn, and 60grams of concentrate. Wash three times then drain thoroughly.
Place the drained grains in a mixing bowl then add your 75grams platinum, 1 pc finely chopped boiled egg white, and one tbsp flat dextrose powder. Stir well and put 35grams of the mixture into six feeding clay pots. Before giving rationed feeds to roosters, put three drops of a secret weapon and a drop of pure honey (about a dime size ) on top of each individual ration. Feed the roosters. Omit the secret weapon and pure honey in the afternoon feed.
For their drinking water, mix selectrogen or electrogen daily “only in their morning” drinking water, especially during the hot summer months. Give clean fresh in their afternoon drinking water.
CARBOLOADING(2 – 4 DAYS BEFORE FIGHT )
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30 GRAMS - OAT GRATS
70 GRAMS - CRACK CORN
40 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
60 GRAMS – PLATINUM
***FOLLOW THE SAME FEEDING & DRINKING WATER PROCEDURES
CARBOLOADING (1 DAY BEFORE FIGHT)
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30 GRAMS – OAT GROATS
90 GRAMS - CRACK CORN
30 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
50 GRAMS - PLATINUM
***CUT THEIR RATION TO 30 GRAMS PER COCK FOR THEIR MORNING AND AFTERNOON
FEEDING.
CUT WATER INTAKE TO 8 DIPS IN THE MORNING AND 8 DIPS IN THE AFTERNOON.
CARBOLOADING AND POINTING ON FIGHT DAY
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30 GRAMS - OAT GROATS
100GRAMS – CRACK CORN
50 GRAMS – PLATINUM
****RATION 30 GRAMS PER COCK FOR MORNING FEED. NO REGULAR AFTERNOON
FEED**
CUT WATER INTAKE TO 4 DIPS IN THE MORNING.
DERBY TIPS AND POINTERS on FIGHT DAY
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***I DEDUCT 40 GRAMS OFF FROM EACH OF MY ROOSTERS’ WEIGHTS IN ARRIVING
AT MY ENTRY’S SUBMITTED/DECLARED WEIGHTS. (FOR EXAMPLE, MY ROOSTER WEIGHS
2.040KGS. WILL BE SUBMITTED/DECLARED AS 2.000KGS.) THIS IS SAFE ENOUGH AS THE
USUAL ‘BAD WEIGHTS‘ IMPLEMENTED BY VARIOUS COCKPITS ARE FROM 35-45GRAMS.
***LIMBER AND DROP ROOSTERS INSIDE 3X3 PENS EVERY 2 ½ HRS FOR
APPROXIMATELY 5-10 MINUTES FOR THEM TO EXCRETE DROPPINGS.
***IN THE AFTERNOON, TEST WEIGHT YOUR ROOSTERS EVERY TIME THEY ARE
DROPPED.
***IF THEY ARE ALREADY IN THEIR GOOD WEIGHT WITHIN 4 HOURS WITHIN THEIR
APPROXIMATE FIGHTING TIME, DON’T FEED THEM ANYMORE.
***IF THEY ARE WITHIN THE GOOD WEIGHT AND ARE EXPECTED TO BE FOUGHT
BEYOND 4 HOURS,
YOU MAY FEED THEM NOT MORE THAN 5 GRAMS OF CRACK CORN/PLATINUM MIXTURE
DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH WEIGHT THEIR WEIGHTS HAVE DROPPED.
***IF YOU ARE WITHIN GOOD WEIGHT AND YOUR FOWL’S DROPPINGS ARE TOO DRY,
YOU MAY GIVE THEM 2-3 DIPS OF WATER WITH SELECTROGEN BUT AT LEAST 2 HOURS
BEFORE FIGHT. THIS WILL PROVIDE MOISTURE TO THEIR SYSTEM.
***IF YOU ARE WITHIN GOOD WEIGHT AND YOUR FOWL’S DROPPINGS ARE WET OR
TOO SOFT, YOU MAY GIVE THEM 7-9 PIECES OF PELLETS/PLATINUM AND 3-4 PIECES OF
CRACKED CORN. THIS WILL ABSORB THE EXCESS MOISTURE IN THEIR SYSTEM. DO THIS AT
LEAST 2 HOURS BEFORE FIGHT TIME.
***ENSURE THAT THE CROPS OF YOUR FOWLS ARE EMPTY WHEN THEY ARE FOUGHT.
THUS, ALWAYS CALCULATE THE TIME YOUR COCKS SHALL BE FOUGHT TO ENSURE THIS.(
BASE YOUR CALCULATION AT 5-7 FIGHTS per HOUR)
***AVOID WETTING YOUR FOWLS EXTERNALLY TOO MUCH DURING FIGHT DAY. THIS
WOULD ONLY ADD UNNECESSARY EXTERNAL MOISTURE TO YOUR ROOSTERS. A FEW SPRAYS OF
WATER IN THEIR FACE AND VENT IS ENOUGH TO FRESHEN THEM. TOO MUCH
WETTING/SPRAYING ON FIGHT DAY WOULD DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD.
MY 21DAY VITAMIN/SUPPLEMENT FORMULA
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DAY 1 .3CC COMPLEXOR
DAY 2 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 3 CALCIUM
DAY 4 PANAX GINSENG
DAY 5 .25CC B-12
DAY 6 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 7 CALCIUM
DAY 8 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 9 .25CC B-12 = .25CC COMPLEXOR
DAY 10 PANAX GINSENG
DAY 11 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 12 CALCIUM
DAY 13 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 14 .4CC B-12
DAY 15 PANAX GINSENG
DAY 16 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 17 VOLTPLEX
DAY 18 .4CC B-12
DAY 19 VOLTPLEX (LUNCHTIME)
DAY 20 PANAX GINSENG (LUNCHTIME)
DAY 21 – VOLTPLEX 6:00 AM (FIGHT DAY)
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| Learn more about Voltplex KQ |
***FROM DAYS 1 – 18 GIVE DURING EVENING OR LATE AFTERNOON AFTER FEEDING
NATURAL TRAINING AND EXERCISE
BASIC FACILITIES AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED
SCRATCH BOX (WITH DRIED CORN HUSKS INSIDE)
4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS
FLYING PENS
RUNNING PENS
CORD AREA
RUEDA/PIT WITH LIGHTS
WEIGHING SCALE ( 5 GRAMS GRADUATION)
COOKHOUSE WITH RESTING COOPS
DAILY TRAINING ROUTINE/EXERCISE
**DAYS 1- 5 (START 4:00AM)
10 MINUTES EACH INSIDE SCRATCH BOX
1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA UNDER FLUORESCENT LIGHTS
5:00 – 5:30AM BACK TO CORD AREA
6:00 - 6:30AM PLACE IN RUNNING PEN FOR 30 MINUTES
FEED AND REST THEM 7:00AM
3:00PM 10 MINUTES EACH INSIDE SCRATCH BOX
4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED AND REST
***DAYS 6-10( START 4:00AM)
15 MINUTES INSIDE SCRATCH BOX
1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA –DO-
5:00-5:30AM CORD AREA –DO-
6:00-6:30AM RUNNING PENS –DO-
7:OOAM FEED AND REST
8:00AM – 9:00AM SUN BATHE INSIDE 4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS
9:00AM – 12:30PM REST IN CORD AREA OR 4 X 4 PENS INSIDE RUEDA
12:30PM – 4:00PM PLACE THEM INSIDE FLYING PENS
4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED AND REST
****DAYS 11-13 (START 4:AM)
-DO- SCRATCH BOX
-DO- LIMBER RUEDA
-DO- CORD AREA
7:00AM MORNING FEED
8:00AM– 3:00PM FLYING PEN
3:00PM 15 MINUTES SCRATCH BOX
4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED
7:00PM-8:00PM 1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE LIGHTED RUEDA
*****DAYS 14-18 (START 4:00AM)
-DO- SCRATCH BOX
-DO- LIMBER RUEDA
-DO- CORD AREA
7:00AM MORNING FEED
8:00AM-8:30/9:00(DEPENDING ON HEAT OF SUN) AM SUNBATHE INSIDE 4 X 4 PENS
9:00AM-12:00PM REST THEM AT CORD AREA
12:00PM – 3:00PM REST THEM AT RUEDA INSIDE 4 X 4 PENS
3:00PM SCRATCH BOX 5 MINUTES ONLY
4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED
7:00PM-8:00PM LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA
******DAYS 19 AND 20
NO MORNING WORK, 4:00AM JUST LET ROOSTERS WALK INDIVIDUALLY INSIDE
LIGHTED RUEDA
FOR TEN MINUTES, THEN PUT THEM BACK INSIDE THEIR COOPS. REPEAT THIS AT
12:00PM AND
4:00PM AFTERNOON. BEFORE FEEDING THEM PLACE THEM INSIDE A SCRATCH BOX FOR
ONLY FIVE
MINUTES MAXIMUM, JUST ENOUGH TO LOOSEN THEIR MUSCLES.
********DAY21 FIGHT DAY
TOTAL REST FOR ROOSTERS. GOOD LUCK!!!
TIPS ON SPARRING
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| Gallos Finos Sparring Rubber Gloves |
Why do we spar roosters? Most often, roosters are sparred for entertainment purposes especially when friends or buyers are around. It can showcase each rooster’s fighting styles and abilities. However, sparring roosters during the conditioning stage is done quite differently when they are sparred during the pre-conditioning and/or maintenance stage. When my cocks are in the pre-conditioning and maintenance stage, I see to it that they are sparred once or twice a month.
My stags are sparred at every other four days. I spar them just to have them accustomed to being sparred and more important to monitor and record which among them are the very good and consistent sparrers. You may at this stage spar them alternately on grass and at your rueda. Two rounds of three buckles each is enough. I usually spar them before being fed in the morning or afternoon. Rate them as follows C (Deficient), B (average), B+ (good), A (very good), A+ (excellent), A++(super). Don’t play favorites and be objective when rating them. For your selection of candidate cocks/stags to be placed in your 21 days keep, only choose from among those who are consistently rated as A and higher. Selection is key in winning derby championships.
Sparring sessions during the 21 days keep is done around 4:00 – 5:30 am. Your sparring days shall be Days 4, 10, and 15 during this 21 day keep. This will serve as your gauge as to which among your candidate roosters are most worthy of being fielded in. Again, always record and rate each rooster per session as objectively as you can. During the 21-day conditioning stage, you must now always spar in your rueda under fluorescent lights. It is nice if you can also play a loud radio to accustom them to the lighting and various noise conditions inside the pit as close as possible. Try to heat and release your roosters as if you are already atop the pit in the actual fight.
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| Learn more about Gallos Finos Training Leg Balancers |
Release your roosters in the manner you intend to release them come fight time. Two rounds of 2 to 3 short buckles is enough. Always remember to bathe or shampoo your roosters the day after their sparring day. I use mite Zero Mite or Wash-Out shampoo for roosters which I find both effective and fowl friendly. Remember this, “We do not intend to acquire stamina and endurance during sparring, again this is only our gauge on how ready our roosters are”. Too much and long sparring will only do more harm than good as it will sap the energy and vitality. It also is the main reason for our roosters to sustain injuries such as sprains, muscle strains, dislocated joints, damaged beaks, and spurs not to mention broken tail and wing feathers. Worst of all over-sparring will only ruin your roosters’ sharpness and edge. Don’t spar your roosters to the point of exhaustion. We want our roosters to be razor-sharp as possible come fight time. We want them to be on ‘edge’, thus be able to kill their opponents as quickly as possible and full of vigor and reserved energy to be able to last the ten-minute time limit during a long battering drag fight if needed.
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| Learn more about Zero Mite Gamefowl Shampoo |
RANDOM TIPS AND POINTERS
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** DEWORM ALL CANDIDATE ROOSTERS 7 DAYS BEFORE THIS 21 DAY KEEP REGIMEN
AND
REPEAT DEWORMING 12-14 DAYS BEFORE THE FIGHT.
**BATHE AND/OR SHAMPOO ROOSTERS THE DAY AFTER EACH SPARRING SESSION
**MAKE IT A POINT TO DOUBLE THE NUMBER OF YOUR CANDIDATE ROOSTERS ESPECIALLY IN A BIG EVENT YOU ARE PARTICIPATING. THUS, YOU MUST HAVE 8 GOOD CANDIDATE COCKS FOR A 4 COCK DERBY EVENT.
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| Learn more about Wash-out Gamefowl Shampoo |
PRODUCT OF THE BROOD PEN.
***YOUR CHEAPEST INVESTMENT IN THIS SPORT IS THE ACQUISITION OF QUALITY
BROOD MATERIALS AS THIS WOULD DETERMINE YOUR DESTINY IN THE SPORT.
***ACQUIRE BROOD FOWL ONLY FROM ESTABLISHED BREEDERS WHO SHALL SELL YOU
HIS WINNING BLOODLINES. CONSISTENCY AND LONGEVITY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME IN
THE SPORT. SHORT-LIVED BLOODLINES AND NICKS COME AND GO, BUT THE BEST ONES ARE
HERE TO STAY.
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