I have been fighting roosters regularly for roughly thirty years way
back in my high school days. At that time when most of my peers were into playing
video games, chess, or attending parties and the like, yours truly was already
busy tending and fighting roosters.
Yes, the thirty years or so of experience has taught and untaught me a
lot of things and lessons regarding the art of cockfighting. I had the
privilege of owning and conditioning both imported and local fighting cocks and
raising most if not all the best and popular gamefowl bloodlines that set foot
in the country. Of equal importance, is the privilege of having been associated
with the best gamefowl conditioners especially when I was starting in the
sport. These long years of experience have taught me how to put my roosters in
shape and ready for big-time competition. What I shall impart with you is based
on my personal /first-hand experiences.
Let us begin by the kind of roosters that we shall condition. Please
remember the following: No amount of scientific conditioning contained in this
keep can transform a mediocre rooster into an ace cock. All we can do to our
second-rate roosters is to bring them to their full potential. Thus, it is best
if you fight your mediocre fowls in hack fights where the chances of meeting
class A opponents are less.
**Only class A roosters stand a chance to win the Derby Championship in
today’s top competition **
What is a class A rooster? The following for me are the requisites:
First, your rooster must come from a winning line or family that has been
winning ‘consistently and currently’ in the derbies. Second, the rooster must
be fresh and in robust health (he must not have been moderately or severely ill
throughout his life). Third, the rooster must possess nice conformation (
proportional size and station in relation to his weight), Fourth, There must be
no visible or physical defects such as severely curled toes, broken/damaged
wing and or tail feathers, bumblefoot, crooked breast bones, etc…, Fifth, he
must be properly aged, ideally 30 months and above, where he is at his physical
and psychological peak., Sixth, He must be a good and consistent sparer, not an
erratic performer. All these requisites must be present for a rooster to be in
the class A category.
**Preference and Taste**
I shall always give preference to an intelligent fighting and accurate
cutting rooster over the aggressive/rusher type. When I was new in the sport, I
really wanted roosters that are aggressive, rough, and multiple hitters. In
fact, It took me quite a number of years to realize that this type of fighting
will not yield the winning percentage I desired. It was sometime in the mid-80s when I had a change of heart when I started looking for bloodline/s
that would suit the new fighting style of my preference. Over the years I have
developed strains and families of intelligent roosters that win a big majority
of my fights. The fowls I have developed win quickly with their accurate
cutting and great timing without losing their gameness and power if needed
during a drag fight. Win, Lose or Draw the present fowls I breed and fight
unleash powerful single blows, well-timed and deliberate, each intended to kill
the opponent at the early buckles. The number of championship trophies
displayed on the farm plus my other victories were mostly compliments of these
types of roosters.
***FEEDING THE CHAMPIONS***
FEED MIXTURE FOR YOUR ROOSTERS (GOOD FOR 6 COCKS)
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- - - - - - - - - - - - -
25GRAMS - OAT GROATS
40GRAMS - CRACKED CORN
60 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
75 GRAMS - PLATINUM
1 PC. FINELY CHOPPED BOILED EGG WHITE
1 TBSP FLAT- DEXTROSE POWDER
**SECRET WEAPON
**PURE HONEY
DIRECTIONS: Mix the 25grams oat groats, 40grams of cracked corn, and 60grams of concentrate. Wash three times then drain thoroughly.
Place the drained grains in a mixing bowl then add your 75grams
platinum, 1 pc finely chopped boiled egg white, and one tbsp flat dextrose
powder. Stir well and put 35grams of the mixture into six feeding clay pots.
Before giving rationed feeds to roosters, put three drops of a secret weapon and
a drop of pure honey (about a dime size ) on top of each individual ration.
Feed the roosters. Omit the secret weapon and pure honey in the afternoon feed.
For their drinking water, mix selectrogen or electrogen daily “only in
their morning” drinking water, especially during the hot summer months. Give
clean fresh in their afternoon drinking water.
CARBOLOADING(2 – 4 DAYS BEFORE FIGHT )
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- - - - - -
30 GRAMS - OAT GRATS
70 GRAMS - CRACK CORN
40 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
60 GRAMS – PLATINUM
***FOLLOW THE SAME FEEDING & DRINKING WATER PROCEDURES
CARBOLOADING (1 DAY BEFORE FIGHT)
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-
30 GRAMS – OAT GROATS
90 GRAMS - CRACK CORN
30 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
50 GRAMS - PLATINUM
***CUT THEIR RATION TO 30 GRAMS PER COCK FOR THEIR MORNING AND AFTERNOON
FEEDING.
CUT WATER INTAKE TO 8 DIPS IN THE MORNING AND 8 DIPS IN THE AFTERNOON.
CARBOLOADING AND POINTING ON FIGHT DAY
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- - - - - - -
30 GRAMS - OAT GROATS
100GRAMS – CRACK CORN
50 GRAMS – PLATINUM
****RATION 30 GRAMS PER COCK FOR MORNING FEED. NO REGULAR AFTERNOON
FEED**
CUT WATER INTAKE TO 4 DIPS IN THE MORNING.
DERBY TIPS AND POINTERS on FIGHT DAY
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***I DEDUCT 40 GRAMS OFF FROM EACH OF MY ROOSTERS’ WEIGHTS IN ARRIVING
AT MY ENTRY’S SUBMITTED/DECLARED WEIGHTS. (FOR EXAMPLE, MY ROOSTER WEIGHS
2.040KGS. WILL BE SUBMITTED/DECLARED AS 2.000KGS.) THIS IS SAFE ENOUGH AS THE
USUAL ‘BAD WEIGHTS‘ IMPLEMENTED BY VARIOUS COCKPITS ARE FROM 35-45GRAMS.
***LIMBER AND DROP ROOSTERS INSIDE 3X3 PENS EVERY 2 ½ HRS FOR
APPROXIMATELY 5-10 MINUTES FOR THEM TO EXCRETE DROPPINGS.
***IN THE AFTERNOON, TEST WEIGHT YOUR ROOSTERS EVERY TIME THEY ARE
DROPPED.
***IF THEY ARE ALREADY IN THEIR GOOD WEIGHT WITHIN 4 HOURS WITHIN THEIR
APPROXIMATE FIGHTING TIME, DON’T FEED THEM ANYMORE.
***IF THEY ARE WITHIN THE GOOD WEIGHT AND ARE EXPECTED TO BE FOUGHT
BEYOND 4 HOURS,
YOU MAY FEED THEM NOT MORE THAN 5 GRAMS OF CRACK CORN/PLATINUM MIXTURE
DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH WEIGHT THEIR WEIGHTS HAVE DROPPED.
***IF YOU ARE WITHIN GOOD WEIGHT AND YOUR FOWL’S DROPPINGS ARE TOO DRY,
YOU MAY GIVE THEM 2-3 DIPS OF WATER WITH SELECTROGEN BUT AT LEAST 2 HOURS
BEFORE FIGHT. THIS WILL PROVIDE MOISTURE TO THEIR SYSTEM.
***IF YOU ARE WITHIN GOOD WEIGHT AND YOUR FOWL’S DROPPINGS ARE WET OR
TOO SOFT, YOU MAY GIVE THEM 7-9 PIECES OF PELLETS/PLATINUM AND 3-4 PIECES OF
CRACKED CORN. THIS WILL ABSORB THE EXCESS MOISTURE IN THEIR SYSTEM. DO THIS AT
LEAST 2 HOURS BEFORE FIGHT TIME.
***ENSURE THAT THE CROPS OF YOUR FOWLS ARE EMPTY WHEN THEY ARE FOUGHT.
THUS, ALWAYS CALCULATE THE TIME YOUR COCKS SHALL BE FOUGHT TO ENSURE THIS.(
BASE YOUR CALCULATION AT 5-7 FIGHTS per HOUR)
***AVOID WETTING YOUR FOWLS EXTERNALLY TOO MUCH DURING FIGHT DAY. THIS
WOULD ONLY ADD UNNECESSARY EXTERNAL MOISTURE TO YOUR ROOSTERS. A FEW SPRAYS OF
WATER IN THEIR FACE AND VENT IS ENOUGH TO FRESHEN THEM. TOO MUCH
WETTING/SPRAYING ON FIGHT DAY WOULD DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD.
MY 21DAY VITAMIN/SUPPLEMENT FORMULA
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- - - - - -
DAY 1 .3CC COMPLEXOR
DAY 2 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 3 CALCIUM
DAY 4 PANAX GINSENG
DAY 5 .25CC B-12
DAY 6 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 7 CALCIUM
DAY 8 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 9 .25CC B-12 = .25CC COMPLEXOR
DAY 10 PANAX GINSENG
DAY 11 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 12 CALCIUM
DAY 13 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 14 .4CC B-12
DAY 15 PANAX GINSENG
DAY 16 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 17 VOLTPLEX
DAY 18 .4CC B-12
DAY 19 VOLTPLEX (LUNCHTIME)
DAY 20 PANAX GINSENG (LUNCHTIME)
DAY 21 – VOLTPLEX 6:00 AM (FIGHT DAY)
***FROM DAYS 1 – 18 GIVE DURING EVENING OR LATE AFTERNOON AFTER FEEDING
NATURAL TRAINING AND EXERCISE
BASIC FACILITIES AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED
SCRATCH BOX (WITH DRIED CORN HUSKS INSIDE)
4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS
FLYING PENS
RUNNING PENS
CORD AREA
RUEDA/PIT WITH LIGHTS
WEIGHING SCALE ( 5 GRAMS GRADUATION)
COOKHOUSE WITH RESTING COOPS
DAILY TRAINING ROUTINE/EXERCISE
**DAYS 1- 5 (START 4:00AM)
10 MINUTES EACH INSIDE SCRATCH BOX
1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA UNDER FLUORESCENT LIGHTS
5:00 – 5:30AM BACK TO CORD AREA
6:00 - 6:30AM PLACE IN RUNNING PEN FOR 30 MINUTES
FEED AND REST THEM 7:00AM
3:00PM 10 MINUTES EACH INSIDE SCRATCH BOX
4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED AND REST
***DAYS 6-10( START 4:00AM)
15 MINUTES INSIDE SCRATCH BOX
1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA –DO-
5:00-5:30AM CORD AREA –DO-
6:00-6:30AM RUNNING PENS –DO-
7:OOAM FEED AND REST
8:00AM – 9:00AM SUN BATHE INSIDE 4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS
9:00AM – 12:30PM REST IN CORD AREA OR 4 X 4 PENS INSIDE RUEDA
12:30PM – 4:00PM PLACE THEM INSIDE FLYING PENS
4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED AND REST
****DAYS 11-13 (START 4:AM)
-DO- SCRATCH BOX
-DO- LIMBER RUEDA
-DO- CORD AREA
7:00AM MORNING FEED
8:00AM– 3:00PM FLYING PEN
3:00PM 15 MINUTES SCRATCH BOX
4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED
7:00PM-8:00PM 1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE LIGHTED RUEDA
*****DAYS 14-18 (START 4:00AM)
-DO- SCRATCH BOX
-DO- LIMBER RUEDA
-DO- CORD AREA
7:00AM MORNING FEED
8:00AM-8:30/9:00(DEPENDING ON HEAT OF SUN) AM SUNBATHE INSIDE 4 X 4 PENS
9:00AM-12:00PM REST THEM AT CORD AREA
12:00PM – 3:00PM REST THEM AT RUEDA INSIDE 4 X 4 PENS
3:00PM SCRATCH BOX 5 MINUTES ONLY
4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED
7:00PM-8:00PM LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA
******DAYS 19 AND 20
NO MORNING WORK, 4:00AM JUST LET ROOSTERS WALK INDIVIDUALLY INSIDE
LIGHTED RUEDA
FOR TEN MINUTES, THEN PUT THEM BACK INSIDE THEIR COOPS. REPEAT THIS AT
12:00PM AND
4:00PM AFTERNOON. BEFORE FEEDING THEM PLACE THEM INSIDE A SCRATCH BOX FOR
ONLY FIVE
MINUTES MAXIMUM, JUST ENOUGH TO LOOSEN THEIR MUSCLES.
********DAY21 FIGHT DAY
TOTAL REST FOR ROOSTERS. GOOD LUCK!!!
TIPS ON SPARRING
Why do we spar roosters? Most often, roosters are sparred for
entertainment purposes especially when friends or buyers are around. It can
showcase each rooster’s fighting styles and abilities. However, sparring
roosters during the conditioning stage is done quite differently when they are
sparred during the pre-conditioning and/or maintenance stage. When my cocks are
in the pre-conditioning and maintenance stage, I see to it that they are
sparred once or twice a month.
My stags are sparred at every other four days. I
spar them just to have them accustomed to being sparred and more important to
monitor and record which among them are the very good and consistent sparrers.
You may at this stage spar them alternately on grass and at your rueda. Two
rounds of three buckles each is enough. I usually spar them before being fed in
the morning or afternoon. Rate them as follows C (Deficient), B (average), B+
(good), A (very good), A+ (excellent), A++(super). Don’t play favorites and be
objective when rating them. For your selection of candidate cocks/stags to be
placed in your 21 days keep, only choose from among those who are consistently
rated as A and higher. Selection is key in winning derby championships.
Sparring sessions during the 21 days keep is done around 4:00 – 5:30 am.
Your sparring days shall be Days 4, 10, and 15 during this 21 day keep. This will
serve as your gauge as to which among your candidate roosters are most worthy
of being fielded in. Again, always record and rate each rooster per session as
objectively as you can. During the 21-day conditioning stage, you must now
always spar in your rueda under fluorescent lights. It is nice if you can also
play a loud radio to accustom them to the lighting and various noise
conditions inside the pit as close as possible. Try to heat and release your
roosters as if you are already atop the pit in the actual fight.
Release your
roosters in the manner you intend to release them come fight time. Two rounds
of 2 to 3 short buckles is enough. Always remember to bathe or shampoo your
roosters the day after their sparring day. I use mite Zero Mite or Wash-Out shampoo
for roosters which I find both effective and fowl friendly. Remember this, “We
do not intend to acquire stamina and endurance during sparring, again this is
only our gauge on how ready our roosters are”. Too much and long sparring will
only do more harm than good as it will sap the energy and vitality. It also is
the main reason for our roosters to sustain injuries such as sprains, muscle
strains, dislocated joints, damaged beaks, and spurs not to mention broken tail
and wing feathers. Worst of all over-sparring will only ruin your roosters’
sharpness and edge. Don’t spar your roosters to the point of exhaustion. We
want our roosters to be razor-sharp as possible come fight time. We want them
to be on ‘edge’, thus be able to kill their opponents as quickly as possible
and full of vigor and reserved energy to be able to last the ten-minute time
limit during a long battering drag fight if needed.
RANDOM TIPS AND POINTERS
________________________________
** DEWORM ALL CANDIDATE ROOSTERS 7 DAYS BEFORE THIS 21 DAY KEEP REGIMEN
AND
REPEAT DEWORMING 12-14 DAYS BEFORE THE FIGHT.
**BATHE AND/OR SHAMPOO ROOSTERS THE DAY AFTER EACH SPARRING SESSION
**MAKE IT A POINT TO DOUBLE THE NUMBER OF YOUR CANDIDATE ROOSTERS
ESPECIALLY IN A BIG EVENT YOU ARE PARTICIPATING. THUS, YOU MUST HAVE 8 GOOD CANDIDATE COCKS
FOR A 4 COCK DERBY EVENT.
PRODUCT OF THE BROOD PEN.
***YOUR CHEAPEST INVESTMENT IN THIS SPORT IS THE ACQUISITION OF QUALITY
BROOD MATERIALS AS THIS WOULD DETERMINE YOUR DESTINY IN THE SPORT.
***ACQUIRE BROOD FOWL ONLY FROM ESTABLISHED BREEDERS WHO SHALL SELL YOU
HIS WINNING BLOODLINES. CONSISTENCY AND LONGEVITY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME IN
THE SPORT. SHORT-LIVED BLOODLINES AND NICKS COME AND GO, BUT THE BEST ONES ARE
HERE TO STAY.
***
TRY YOUR DARNDEST BEST TO FOLLOW STRICTLY WHAT I HAVE SHARED WITH YOU AND IT
WILL SURELY INCREASE YOUR WINNING PERCENTAGES DRAMATICALLY FOR AS LONG YOU ARE
USING QUALITY BATTLE FOWL. WHAT I HAVE SHARED HERE HAS BEEN PROVEN OVER THE
YEARS IN THE TOUGHEST PITS IN ARANETA, ROLIGON, PASAY, MAKATI, CAINTA, SAN JUAN, AND OTHER TOP COCK FIGHTING VENUES.
FERDIE C. DUCEPEC
